Climbing Rope Care and Maintenance

by Lucas McDevitt

We all know how vital ropes are in the climbing world; without such, we wouldn’t be able to explore the taller walls and enjoy the higher world of climbing that we all know and love. However, when should we trust a rope and when should we leave it to rest? There are many different ideas on when and how long a rope is usable but the general consensus in the climbing community is no longer than 10 years no matter the wear. Montana Alpine Guides and Mammut North America provide a table to help rope users better understand their rope wear and longevity of rope life:

Independent of the frequency of use, ropes should also be retired from climbing if one of the following has occurred:

• The rope came in contact with chemicals, particularly acids.
• The sheath is damaged and the core is visible.
• The sheath is extremely worn, or particularly fuzzy.
• The sheath has slipped noticeably
• Strong deformations are present (stiffness, nicks, sponginess).
• The rope was subjected to extreme loads (e.g. heavy falls, clearly over fall factor 1).
• The rope is extremely dirty (grease, oil, tar).
• Heat, abrasion, or friction burns have caused damage.

For other information and understanding on rope wear and longevity please direct to the following: When to Replace Your Climbing Rope and When to Retire A Climbing Rope.